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The proud owner of Pak Ke Seafood Restaurant in Ap Lei Chau.
Hong Kong is one of the culinary capitals of the world. One of my favourite aspects about the city is how cosmopolitan it is! Hong Kong Island in particular glitters with international eateries that are run by people who have brought their culture and cuisine over.
As internationally-inspired as Hong Kong’s culinary scene grew to be over the past few decades, there is a style that is a grassroot of Hong Kong cuisine.
If you’d like more travel recommendations for Hong Kong, message me on Instagram. Alternatively, we can book a meeting.
Eat like a local in Hong Kong
General Introduction: Cooked Food Centres in HK
Locals who have grown up in Hong Kong will remember “dai pai dong” stalls fondly. These hawker stalls have the most simplistic, run-down set-ups and serve street food that is affordable and tasty.
Over the years, many of these “dai pai dong” stalls have moved into government-supported “Cooked Food Centres” which are usually attached to a food market. These markets are where the freshest meat, vegetables & seafood is displayed and picked by restaurant owners and locals. The atmosphere is full of energy!
Nowadays, there are over 40 cooked food centres in Hong Kong. Each has its own vibe and specialty eateries. Bowrington Road Market, for example, houses Wai Kee Halal Restaurant which serves the famous Roast Duck Leg Rice.
The commonality between all Cooked Food Centres are that they are affordable places for the community. Step in during any night, and you will feel the convivial atmosphere as locals dine in shared spaces. If you enjoy beer, order the “Blue Girl” label – it’s a Hong Kong classic.
After work, locals go to Cooked Food Centres for affordable, tasty meals. Pictured: Mong Kok district.
Ap Lei Chau Seafood Market & Cooked Food Centre
For the top seafood experiences in Hong Kong, consider adding a visit to Ap Lei Chau to your itinerary. This small, 1.3 square-kilometre island is next to Aberdeen Harbour and is historically known as a fishing village. Today, its main street is known as the “Tsukiji of Hong Kong”, in reference to the famous Japanese seafood market.
Ap Lei Chau Seafood Market (map link here) may be off the beaten track as a tourist destination, but it’s well worth a visit for an authentic local experience. Wet markets are part of every Hong Konger’s life – it’s where mothers go to buy fresh seafood to cook for the family. It’s where chefs from local restaurants shop for prestigious fish like Lunar-tailed Coral Grouper or the Australian Coral Trout.
Ap Lei Chau Seafood Market is on the 1st floor of a 2-storey building. You can pick your favourite wild fish and yummiest catches from the vendors, and then request the seafood to be cooked upstairs in the Cooked Food area.
We visited Pak Ke and ordered our dishes a la carte. It was the first time I tried sea snails – the flavour was fine but I can’t say I have adapted to the texture just yet!
Shek Tong Tsui Cooked Food Centre
The University of Hong Kong is based in Pok Fu Lam, not far from Shek Tong Tsui Cooked Food Centre (map link here). This is another wet market in Hong Kong that offers affordable, communal-style dining. Queen’s Road West is outside, running through a relatively wealthy neighbourhood popular with expats.
If you are planning to visit the wet market, there are fun things to do in nearby Sai Ying Pun beforehand. I can suggest arriving at Sai Ying Pun MTR Station during the early afternoon. This gives you time to check-out the area’s trendy cafes and heritage buildings – perfect for a photo documentary of Hong Kong’s past.
Cafes to visit in Sai Ying Pun include NOC (Not Only Coffee) and Winstons Coffee. As a part time digital nomad, I was particularly fond of the remote work friendliness of NOC. I’ve published pictures in this article.
While you are cafe-hopping, take time to explore the streets of Sai Ying Pun. Expats and locals are fond of the area around Western St and High St, where traditional Hong Kong eateries mix in with chic, European restaurants.
When evening arrives, it’s time to go to Shek Tong Tsui Cooked Food Centre. The vibe here is as local as it can get. The bottom two floors are the wet market, where meat and vegetables are sold. Unassuming, slightly run-down, and bare of decor, the top floor is where people come for grass-roots Hong Kong food.
I love how conversational the customers were with the eatery owners. At our table, the shop owner came and drank with us.
I visited during summer time, which is humid and hot. With the fans turned on, my family ordered classic dishes like Claypot Rice and Stir Fried Soy Sauce Noodles. If you’re feeling adventurous, give the Goose Feet in Abalone Sauce a try 😉 The Sand Ginger Pig’s Feet might look daunting to bite into, but the bite is full of flavour.
Other top Cooked Food Centres to visit
To dive deeper into Hong Kong’s traditional culture, it’s worth adding a visit to a wet market and Cooked Food Centre to your itinerary. Go with a group of friends so you can share and try more dishes!
Here are our other recommendations:
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